You go to the Department of Transport Management to fill the
form to obtain a driving license. You don’t even have to reach the office, for
outside there are rows and rows of makeshift stalls – a table, a chair, and a
large umbrella over the open sky—where forms are sold. Not just that, but the
people at the stalls also help you fill the forms: for Rs. 50 each.
The assistance continues as you work through the process of
getting a license. After you give your written examination, the results are
pasted on the walls of the premises, but only after several hours. For a small
fee of Rs. 30, helpers will be ready to look up the number for you and give you
a call. “You may pay us Rs.30, but you save petrol worth Rs. 60,” says Maya
Chhetri*, 30, who has a stall outside the premises and often provides this
service.
And that’s not all! If you’re hovering around with a form
and a photo, a minder will appear magically by your side with a stick of gum,
offering to paste the photo to the form. Since you don’t know where else to get
the gum for a one-time use, this service seems a godsend (actually,
government-issue gum and other necessities can be found at the gate, but most
first-timers don’t know this). For this timely help, you can give him any
amount you want to.
If you stick around long enough, you’ll also receive
discreet offers to “speed up your process.” In other words, the license that
would be delivered four days later can be delivered within ten minutes – for a
mere Rs. 300.
It’s common for informal businesses like this to sprout up
around busy places. Most government offices, including the CDO Office and Foreign
Ministry, witness a fair number of them. Even registered businesses take
advantage of busy areas by charging inflated prices for simple services like
photocopies.
On the one hand, such businesses make life easier for
consumers by providing essential services. Kush Shrestha, 26, who spent a long
time in stationery shops outside an embassy, believes they made his visa
application process more convenient.
“They were expensive, but they knew the exact specifications
of the photos I wanted,” he reflects. Similarly, at the Department of Transport
Management, Maya helps many people who aren’t comfortable with the formalities
of official documents.
On the other hand, such businesses are seen as a sign of
inefficiency of the offices in question. Once, Deepak KC, 27, and a student,
was almost assaulted by a hanger-on near the CDO office, who asked Deepak if he
wanted to register a marriage. Deepak was with a female friend and the question
embarrassed them both. The person would make the marriage process easier for a
small fee by walking couples through the lengthy and tedious documentation
process.
“If offices ran as they should, there would be no need for
such overenthusiastic assistants,” says Deepak who usually avoids such
middlemen.
Availing of these services also makes you vulnerable to
deception, because the task may not even be accomplished at the end of the day.
Many places, like the Foreign Ministry, are sensitive and cannot be influenced
by brokers, but there’s no shortage of people claiming to get your work done
for a fee.
“And when the middlemen do manage to get the work done, it’s
even more disastrous. It tells us how the officials are open to corruption,”
Deepak explains.
Economist Dilli Raj Khanal informs that such informal
transactions occur in every economy. According to reports from World Bank and
other economic institutions, informal economy makes up 35-40% of the economy.
In Nepal, as much as 94% of the labor market, which includes wage laborers,
builders, coolies, agricultural helpers, vendors, etc, is informal.
“Such transactions are invisible in the eyes of the state,”
says Khanal.
It follows that illegal or criminal activities that cannot
be officially registered, like high-level corruption or the global trade in
drugs, fall under informal economy. At the same time, informal economy also
includes perfectly harmless transactions. Like many students of Kirtipur,
Prasiddha Pokharel goes to the pond at Doodh Pokhari to wash his clothes. As big
plastic bowls to wash clothes are available there for hire at a nominal cost of
five rupees, he doesn’t need to worry about carrying cumbersome items when he
goes there.
But most often, informal economy straddles the uneasy border
between the legal and illegal, like the activities listed above. Because these
businesses are unregistered, they easily gain unsavory reputations. Stalls
around the Department of Transport Management have been banned for charging
unreasonable fees and deceiving people. The services still exist but in a more
covert manner.
Stall owners are wary of admitting they provide these
services, and even more wary of giving their names because they have been
constantly hounded by the police.
“Police and journalists don’t go after big criminals who
swindle millions but hound people like us who are just trying to make a
living,” said Mahesh Lama*, who has worked in the area for years soliciting
passengers for his driving schools apart from the regular services.
“It’s better than doing nothing,” said Mahesh. “The business
is none too lucrative, but I can at least buy lunch for my children.” He
believes he isn’t doing anything wrong.
But since such transactions are invisible, their
contributions aren’t counted in the GDP and other indicators. As a result, the
picture of economy is always incomplete.
“The percentage of informal transactions in a country’s
economy is an indicator of development,” says Khanal. Those in informal economy
have no social security, no fixed wages, not even guarantees of their
livelihood. Since they are invisible to the state, they can easily avoid taxes
too.
“In developed economies, like the US, I’m sure far fewer
people get away with not paying taxes,” says Khanal.
High activity in the informal sector, like in Nepal, is a
sign of a system still in development. The sign of a developed economy is when
informal elements are gradually formalized, and every transaction is accounted
for. And Nepal still has a long way to go before its informal economy is
sufficiently minimized for it to be called “developed.”
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